Hi All,
It's been a while since our last post due to a lack of free internet at recent accommodations and an aversion to sitting and typing while near the beach -- you understand. That said, we've been to a number new places (mostly islands), and experienced much of Southern Thailand. "Same, Same, but Different" as they say.
As has been the norm, we'll list out some experiences via brain dump. No particular order, just as they come to mind. We think this offers the most free expression or just saves the most time.
1) As long as we used it, it should probably be explained. "Same, Same, but Different" is known as said by almost all Thai people that deal with tourists. It is most often the answer to a comparative question of degree (amount of food, cleanliness of room, effectiveness of air conditioner, safety of anything). If you were to ask: "what is the difference between taking bus trip A and bus trip B", the likely response would be "SSbD". It's exactly as unequivocal as it sounds. In fairness, it's our fault we don't know the language, and they can't articulate the differences in English. This can make decision making frustrating.
2) Southern Itinerary to date: Chiang Mai by plane to Phuket for one night. Ferry to Koh Phi Phi for two nights. Ferry and longtail boat to RaiLay (Krabi) for three nights. Longtail, pickup truck, Bus, Bus, Ferry, Minibus to Koh Samui for two nights. Ferry to Koh Tao for four nights (we are on night three now).
3) If you read #2 carefully, you might notice that the route from RaiLay to Samui was especially trying, let us succinctly elaborate (succinctly because we could go on infinitely). Thai tourism tackles the language barrier during multi connection travel by using a sticker system (said stickers are stuck on your chest). Given a particular sticker, you are meant to be passed from bus, to truck, to taxi, etc..., seamlessly by one operator to another based on your sticker. If you purchase a trip from a tourist office (which is often the easiest way to travel), they will give you a sticker and a time to show up. The remaining details will be generally passed along (very generally - "Same, Same, but Different") and you will wait for the first person to recognize the sticker at stop one. At stop two, you will then wait for another operator to see your sticker, all the time hoping he/she actually arrives. If you have any inclination for control (or have borderline control problems), this will be difficult for you. Especially when a connecting sticker recognizer is late. For more information, give us a couple drinks and an hour.
4) Koh Phi Phi Don is a great place for 18-22 yr olds to party like it's spring break (Angela is 26 and Jon is 28). Koh Phi Phi Leh (see movie: The Beach) is amazing, idealic, unreal.
5) RaiLay, somehow, is more incredible than Koh Phi Phi Leh. Inconceivably large limestone cliffs less than 1 mile apart with a beach in the middle. We stayed at an awesome place with a pool only feet from the beach. (Side note- almost gave the distance in meters there. Perhaps it's time to get back to America for some good old standard rule).
6) The south of Thailand is decidedly touristy. Pro - More English speakers including Thais. Con - Less Thai immersion. Somehow we stayed in a German destination in RaiLay and a French destination in Samui. Who's better? We sorta kept to ourselves.
7) We are currently in Koh Tao learning to scuba dive. Today was our first two ocean dives submerging to roughly 12 meters (yes, the instructor is forcing metric down our red white and blue throats). Breathing while underwater is as cool as it sounds. More to come.
That's it for now. Hope every one's doing well wherever you might be. (again, not proofread)
Angela and Jon
Friday, July 16, 2010
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
The Trip Continues...
We sat in Chiang Mai's TAT office (Thailand Tourism) among posters and
photo albums of tourists (all Caucasian, surely by design) Trekking, Ropes
Coarsing, Elephant Riding, Rafting, Experiencing Thailand, etc.. It all
seemed very canned and regulated - single servings of Thailand ready for
consumption. The guidebooks warned of this. Many options offered little
chance of great adventure, but also little chance getting lost or hurting
oneself. Lonely Planet was specifically weary of the "One Day
Treks," describing them as equal parts Driving, Eating, and Walking -
hardly trekking at all. That said, we decided for the obvious choice, the
road less traveled, the 2 day trek.
Said trek was sold as a 4 part adventure: 1) "Elephant trek", 2) hike to
waterfall (to play and shower), 3) hike to native hill tribe where we would
stay the night in a "5 star accommodation (for hill tribe)", and 4)
bamboo raft down a river. Given a baseline expectation of canned-ness, it
seemed that we'd chosen enough activities that something would feel
authentic, local, and adventurous. At the outset, this was more of an
adventure than expected.
Starting w/ the Elephant "trek," Thailand tourism was force fed as
expected. That said, we hadn't fully anticipated our immediate discomfort
with the whole operation. It didn't seem that the elephants were terribly
abused; however, the exploitation didn't feel right either. Had we not been
quickly shuttled out of the car straight onto the biggest elephant in the
park, and given a bit longer to think and feel, we wouldn't have taken the
tour. Definitely our biggest regret so far.
Elephants aside (we'd rather not dwell on that either), the rest of the
trek was an adventure to say the least. A clear reminder that we weren't in
Kansas anymore, or the USA, or the Western World. It seems that the tour
guides are bound to few rules or safety standards (Not sure, but it doesn't
seem that lawsuits are common here). This was both refreshing, and at times,
a bit scary. It's fun to go on a guided hike that doesn't feel like
you're in the latest disneyland adventure park, but you don't want it to
feel like a horror flick either. For example: paths shouldn't be fitted with
guard rails and lighted walkways, we want to push ourselves and have a bit
of fun; however, guard rails on bridges are fun.
In order to speed things up, I'm just going to give some of the highlights,
we can tie the full story line together when we get back:
1) Although not indicated by the TAT salesperson, the hike on day one was
strenuous and directly up hill for the first 2 hours or so. There was a
point that I didn't think our Canadian counterparts (two other girls on the
same trek, one with asthma) would get through the first hour. All told, our
first day hike was about 3.5 hours and 12k or so.
2) The waterfall was cool, despite spurring mostly brown water. The rivers
are pretty muddy. The waterfall also marked a turning point in the trip -
Angela slipped and banged up her foot and knee pretty bad. Turning point,
because our guide didn't speak English and we were concerned that we would
need to get her out early. (This was 5 days ago now and Angela is just fine
- we didn't go home early)
3) In actuality, our "5 star accommodations" should not have been judged in
stars at all. We stayed in a shared hut with 5 other "trekkers", on
dreadfully stained mattresses, with questionably clean blankets, and unclean
pillows. The mosquito nets were ok, but that's all it had going. The toilet
was "squat only" - the kind you step on.
4) Our fellow trekkers were truly the highlight. 3 Canadians and 2 Brits. The
2 Brits were especially warm, hilarious, and generous with there medical
supplies for Angela's fresh cuts.
5) The tribes people were very nice; however, as the night wore on, they got
extremely drunk off of "Thai Water" (local moonshine). They had fire for us
(despite the heat and humidity), sang songs, and drank. Then they drank
more. This was fun, authentic, and a little sketchy. Our group called it a
night at 9pm when it seemed that the wheels were close to coming off.
6) Didn't do the bamboo raft - we didn't think Angela's foot would like it
very much.
7) Hiked through some awesome looking mountain side rice farms.
8) Per above, we crossed somewhere in the neighborhood of 8 bridges, most very
short. Perhaps one had a shaky hand rail. When necessary, Angela scooted
across on her but.
There is more to tell, but we want to get back to having fun. We're
currently in Ko Phi Phi and enjoying the beach. We barely proof read, so
don't be too harsh. There was much learned and experienced above. While we
may not chose to do something like that again, I don't think we trade the
experience either.
photo albums of tourists (all Caucasian, surely by design) Trekking, Ropes
Coarsing, Elephant Riding, Rafting, Experiencing Thailand, etc.. It all
seemed very canned and regulated - single servings of Thailand ready for
consumption. The guidebooks warned of this. Many options offered little
chance of great adventure, but also little chance getting lost or hurting
oneself. Lonely Planet was specifically weary of the "One Day
Treks," describing them as equal parts Driving, Eating, and Walking -
hardly trekking at all. That said, we decided for the obvious choice, the
road less traveled, the 2 day trek.
Said trek was sold as a 4 part adventure: 1) "Elephant trek", 2) hike to
waterfall (to play and shower), 3) hike to native hill tribe where we would
stay the night in a "5 star accommodation (for hill tribe)", and 4)
bamboo raft down a river. Given a baseline expectation of canned-ness, it
seemed that we'd chosen enough activities that something would feel
authentic, local, and adventurous. At the outset, this was more of an
adventure than expected.
Starting w/ the Elephant "trek," Thailand tourism was force fed as
expected. That said, we hadn't fully anticipated our immediate discomfort
with the whole operation. It didn't seem that the elephants were terribly
abused; however, the exploitation didn't feel right either. Had we not been
quickly shuttled out of the car straight onto the biggest elephant in the
park, and given a bit longer to think and feel, we wouldn't have taken the
tour. Definitely our biggest regret so far.
Elephants aside (we'd rather not dwell on that either), the rest of the
trek was an adventure to say the least. A clear reminder that we weren't in
Kansas anymore, or the USA, or the Western World. It seems that the tour
guides are bound to few rules or safety standards (Not sure, but it doesn't
seem that lawsuits are common here). This was both refreshing, and at times,
a bit scary. It's fun to go on a guided hike that doesn't feel like
you're in the latest disneyland adventure park, but you don't want it to
feel like a horror flick either. For example: paths shouldn't be fitted with
guard rails and lighted walkways, we want to push ourselves and have a bit
of fun; however, guard rails on bridges are fun.
In order to speed things up, I'm just going to give some of the highlights,
we can tie the full story line together when we get back:
1) Although not indicated by the TAT salesperson, the hike on day one was
strenuous and directly up hill for the first 2 hours or so. There was a
point that I didn't think our Canadian counterparts (two other girls on the
same trek, one with asthma) would get through the first hour. All told, our
first day hike was about 3.5 hours and 12k or so.
2) The waterfall was cool, despite spurring mostly brown water. The rivers
are pretty muddy. The waterfall also marked a turning point in the trip -
Angela slipped and banged up her foot and knee pretty bad. Turning point,
because our guide didn't speak English and we were concerned that we would
need to get her out early. (This was 5 days ago now and Angela is just fine
- we didn't go home early)
3) In actuality, our "5 star accommodations" should not have been judged in
stars at all. We stayed in a shared hut with 5 other "trekkers", on
dreadfully stained mattresses, with questionably clean blankets, and unclean
pillows. The mosquito nets were ok, but that's all it had going. The toilet
was "squat only" - the kind you step on.
4) Our fellow trekkers were truly the highlight. 3 Canadians and 2 Brits. The
2 Brits were especially warm, hilarious, and generous with there medical
supplies for Angela's fresh cuts.
5) The tribes people were very nice; however, as the night wore on, they got
extremely drunk off of "Thai Water" (local moonshine). They had fire for us
(despite the heat and humidity), sang songs, and drank. Then they drank
more. This was fun, authentic, and a little sketchy. Our group called it a
night at 9pm when it seemed that the wheels were close to coming off.
6) Didn't do the bamboo raft - we didn't think Angela's foot would like it
very much.
7) Hiked through some awesome looking mountain side rice farms.
8) Per above, we crossed somewhere in the neighborhood of 8 bridges, most very
short. Perhaps one had a shaky hand rail. When necessary, Angela scooted
across on her but.
There is more to tell, but we want to get back to having fun. We're
currently in Ko Phi Phi and enjoying the beach. We barely proof read, so
don't be too harsh. There was much learned and experienced above. While we
may not chose to do something like that again, I don't think we trade the
experience either.
A Glimpse of Our Trip......
We finally figured out uploading pics. We had to save them as smaller images...apologies if they are a bit pixelated.
Day of Firsts -- First day in Bangkok, first Chang beer (of many) and first watermelon shake (which Angela now drinks daily).
"Lucky Buddha" -- deamed by the Tuk Tuk
Full day of touring Bangkok via Tuk Tuk
GrandPalace in Bangkok
"Big Budhha"
Another part of the Grand Palace
Cooking class group in Chiang Mai -- "A taste of Thai"
First Day on Jungle Trek -- riding the Elephants (we really did not like it...poor elephant)
Waterfall in Chiang Mai Jungle (site of Angela's accident)
Jungle Trek Group -- at our dining/drinking table
Late night village partying with the locals -- yes they are walking around a fire singing songs in Thai -- it was amazing.
Jungle Trekking
Post-trek (and injury) relaxed at BEAUTIFUL resort in Chiang Mai for some healing
.JPG)
On our way to Ko Phi Phi Don
.JPG)
.JPG)
That is all for now....will share more soon. Hope all is well and love ya!
Day of Firsts -- First day in Bangkok, first Chang beer (of many) and first watermelon shake (which Angela now drinks daily).
"Lucky Buddha" -- deamed by the Tuk Tuk
Full day of touring Bangkok via Tuk Tuk
GrandPalace in Bangkok
"Big Budhha"
Another part of the Grand Palace
Now in Chiang Mai touring temples.....
Cooking class group in Chiang Mai -- "A taste of Thai"
First Day on Jungle Trek -- riding the Elephants (we really did not like it...poor elephant)
Waterfall in Chiang Mai Jungle (site of Angela's accident)
Jungle Trek Group -- at our dining/drinking table
Late night village partying with the locals -- yes they are walking around a fire singing songs in Thai -- it was amazing.
Jungle Trekking
Post-trek (and injury) relaxed at BEAUTIFUL resort in Chiang Mai for some healing
.JPG)
On our way to Ko Phi Phi Don
.JPG)
Lookout point at Ko Phi Phi Don....paradise
.JPG)
That is all for now....will share more soon. Hope all is well and love ya!
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai is to Bangkok as….
San Diego is to LA
Polk Street is to Fishermans’ Warf
In ‘n out is to McDonalds
El Farolito is to Taco Bell
Simpler, Smaller, more wholesome, more digestible…so far, better. To those whom have visited before us and those that have read about Thailand, this is no revelation, rather a fulfilled expectation. Bangkok was fun, especially since we were able to meet up w/ one of Angela’s co-workers (scratch that, ex-co-workers, YES!!); however, Chiang Mai is much more manageable.
The temples have been great! Since arriving in Thailand, we’ve seen somewhere between 15 and 20. As far as Buddha’s go, the numbers probably closer to 500. Considering that Jon didn’t visit any Catholic Churches when visiting Italy, this may be an indication of….a) drifting toward eastern religion and enlightenment, b) increased maturity since post college Europe Trip, or c) Angela.
Key: a) while very interesting, probably not, b) somewhat, c) Yes.
The food continues to be incredible, and to slightly overstate while remaining true to our current feeling, perhaps the best of all time, anywhere. Each meal is fresh, authentic, and spicy. Extremely spicy. Burn the back of your throat spicy. Jon is happy, Angela is adapting (adapting=painful).
Today we took a cooking class, “A Lot of Thai” that was recommended by one of Jon’s co-workers. The set up was pretty sweet: 6 meals in 8 hours including a one hour trip to a local Thai market. We were joined by a nice couple from Singapore who shared our love for food. However, we seemed to love it a bit more….since we finished all six meals while they only ate about half of their plates. After class we rolled back to our hotel to enjoy one of the many luxuries that come with a $50 a night room in Thailand – the infinity pool.
Tomorrow we escape to the southern jungles of Chiang Mai for a two day trek with an overnight stay in a Thai village.
We are having a bit of trouble uploading pictures….hopefully we will have time to do that soon.
San Diego is to LA
Polk Street is to Fishermans’ Warf
In ‘n out is to McDonalds
El Farolito is to Taco Bell
Simpler, Smaller, more wholesome, more digestible…so far, better. To those whom have visited before us and those that have read about Thailand, this is no revelation, rather a fulfilled expectation. Bangkok was fun, especially since we were able to meet up w/ one of Angela’s co-workers (scratch that, ex-co-workers, YES!!); however, Chiang Mai is much more manageable.
The temples have been great! Since arriving in Thailand, we’ve seen somewhere between 15 and 20. As far as Buddha’s go, the numbers probably closer to 500. Considering that Jon didn’t visit any Catholic Churches when visiting Italy, this may be an indication of….a) drifting toward eastern religion and enlightenment, b) increased maturity since post college Europe Trip, or c) Angela.
Key: a) while very interesting, probably not, b) somewhat, c) Yes.
The food continues to be incredible, and to slightly overstate while remaining true to our current feeling, perhaps the best of all time, anywhere. Each meal is fresh, authentic, and spicy. Extremely spicy. Burn the back of your throat spicy. Jon is happy, Angela is adapting (adapting=painful).
Today we took a cooking class, “A Lot of Thai” that was recommended by one of Jon’s co-workers. The set up was pretty sweet: 6 meals in 8 hours including a one hour trip to a local Thai market. We were joined by a nice couple from Singapore who shared our love for food. However, we seemed to love it a bit more….since we finished all six meals while they only ate about half of their plates. After class we rolled back to our hotel to enjoy one of the many luxuries that come with a $50 a night room in Thailand – the infinity pool.
Tomorrow we escape to the southern jungles of Chiang Mai for a two day trek with an overnight stay in a Thai village.
We are having a bit of trouble uploading pictures….hopefully we will have time to do that soon.
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